Celebrity Makeup Artists Tell All
Leading Ladies: She's worked with Toni Collette, Cindy Crawford, Debra Winger
Claim to Fame: She launched a self-titled beauty brand at Target in 1999.
Leading Ladies: She’s worked with Beyoncé, Jennifer Lopez, Lee Ann Womack, Heidi Klum
A new beauty movement has taken over Hollywood: A-listers are abandoning their fake-baked looks for natural radiance.
Now, rocking the red carpet often means flaunting an effervescent, lit-from-within glow instead of a bronzed tan from artificial UV light or sun exposure. Hollywood’s shift away from skin-damaging tans could not have come at a better time — new research shows that just one indoor tanning session raises your risk of developing potentially deadly melanomas by 20 percent and that each additional session that year boosts the risk almost another two percent. With their keen sense of style and knowledge of skin care, makeup artists have been instrumental in reversing the tanning trend. We asked celebrity makeup artists Sonia Kashuk and Mally Roncal to shed light on recent transformations in Hollywood’s high-pressure beauty arena. Here’s what they had to say:
Embracing and Enhancing Natural Radiance
When she launched her self-titled brand at Target in 1999, Sonia Kashuk revolutionized the beauty industry as the first makeup artist to bring prestige beauty products to the masses. She has witnessed the ebb and flow of makeup philosophies, styles and trends since the early 1980s. While in the past a tan seemed to symbolize Hollywood’s sunny beauty and glamour, in recent years, says Kashuk, skin care has become the priority. Celebrities are focused on achieving a fresh, youthful glow through illuminators. “Where you’re seeing a lot of energy now… is with illumination and brighteners, [which] really help to make the skin look transparent and see-through yet beautiful,” she says. Coming in both liquid and powder forms, these products contain light-reflecting ingredients that make the skin glow and often impart a subtle shimmer.
One look at Kashuk’s celebrity client roster, which includes Toni Collette, Cindy Crawford, and Debra Winger, proves her point that stars are amping up their skin care regimens to achieve and maintain a timeless glow.Paying special attention to skin care has paid off for them: Winger’s impeccable skin has followed her into her 50s, and Collette has retained her beautifully textured skin tone by incorporating facials into her skin care regimen. “What better thing is there than to have glowing, healthy-looking skin?” asks Kashuk. “That’s what we all strive for.” It’s certainly a far better choice than accelerating the signs of aging by tanning: more than 90 percent of the signs of skin aging, like wrinkles, dark spots, and sagging skin, are caused by harmful ultraviolet (UV) rays from the sun and tanning machines.
All Colors Are Beautiful
Mally Roncal — whose Mally Beauty cosmetic line launched in 2005 and is sold in Henri Bendel and Fred Segal as well as via QVC and mallybeauty.com — has also been on the beauty scene for more than a decade, working with several A-listers including Beyoncé, Jennifer Lopez, Zooey Deschanel, Celine Dion and Lee Ann Womack. Roncal’s passion for individual beauty shines through in her philosophy, which focuses on “empowering women everywhere to celebrate the differences that make them so fierce, fabulous, and amazing.” Like Kashuk, Roncal has noticed a movement away from the homogenizing effect of tanning beds toward embracing natural beauty. She points out that the new emphasis on sun safety spans the skin spectrum, with stars including Jennifer Lopez — famous for her bronzed complexion — incorporating sunscreen use and other forms of sun protection into her daily routine.
Prepping for a red carpet appearance no longer means hitting the tanning salon, thanks to stars like Zooey Deschanel, the charming lead actor on FOX’s hit television show New< Girl. Deschanel is a perfect example of a celebrity who embraces her naturally fair complexion, notes Roncal. Stars like Deschanel exemplify the idea that red carpet radiance means looking youthful, refreshed and refined, not burned. In fact, Deschanel and other stars of all colors have come to recognize that their own unique skin tone is part of what distinguishes and defines them. “Sometimes embracing that beautiful porcelain skin is something that really sets things apart,” says Kashuk. The same goes for stars like Jennifer Lopez and Michelle Williams — each emanates a different energy and focus, and each has her own uniquely beautiful skin tone.
The Common Enemy: Sun Damage
When broaching the subject of sun damage with her clients, Roncal stresses that sun damage lingers long after a sunburn disappears. “Sun damage is not a temporary problem — a sunburn leaves damage for the rest of your life,” she says. In fact, the damage keeps adding up over the years, prematurely aging the skin and potentially leading to skin cancers.
Protecting skin from this damage is a quest that hits close to home for Kashuk, ever since she was diagnosed with basal cell carcinoma on her face and underwent Mohs surgery in 1999 — the same year she launched her beauty brand. Channeling this experience into her brand has helped Kashuk’s skin care messages resonate with clients. When she spots sun damage, Kashuk goes into repair mode, moisturizing the client’s skin and using vitamin-rich antioxidant serums, while teaching her clients how to use these tools most effectively to nourish skin and diminish long-term damage to their appearance.
Glow Like a Pro
Roncal wants to clear up the misconception that a glow and a tan are synonymous. Anyone of any color can achieve a healthy glow with the right skin regimen, she points out, and a tan has nothing to do with it. Roncal suggests starting your beauty routine with a moisturizer to hydrate skin, then a primer to lock in hydration and create a smooth canvas for makeup. Kashuk praises the versatility of primers, noting that they can go under or over foundation, or be blended with foundation. She recommends choosing a matte primer to reduce unwanted sheen.
The next step in Roncal’s suggested skin care routine is concealer, to hide red or dark spots. Then, apply a bronzer followed by a highlighter, which will enhance bone structure. Finally, Roncal recommends accentuating a flawless complexion with bold shades of color on the eyes, lips and cheeks. Kashuk stresses the power of a good blush, whether you’re aspiring for a look that’s porcelainpure or includes a tinge of golden low. Above all, Kashuk is a firm believer in taking proper care of skin before adding makeup or bronzers. “I’ve always believed that if your skin looks good, you’re already halfway there with what you need to do with color,” she asserts. “I can’t emphasize enough the importance of taking care of the skin, taking care of yourself first,” she says.