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For a product that has been proven to help prevent skin cancer (when used as directed, which it often isn’t), sunscreen in the U.S. has had a rough journey lately, from a tidal wave of misinformation to regulatory reroutes and delays. Here, hopeful news and helpful advice.
When cosmetic chemists talk about sunscreen innovation, we’re not just chasing the next big trendy ingredient. We’re advocating for better protection, better aesthetics and better access. Innovation means giving consumers more choices that fit their lifestyles, skin tones and preferences, while maintaining the highest standards of safety and efficacy.
The urgency for sunscreen innovation is amplified in the United States, where the regulatory bottleneck has left formulators with a limited palette of active ingredients (or, as cosmetic chemists refer to them, UV filters) to work with. Organic filters — which many people call “chemical” ingredients — are carbon-based molecules that work by absorbing ultraviolet (UV) radiation from the sun and converting it into a small amount of heat, which is harmless to your skin. Among those currently used in the U.S., avobenzone is the only one that provides UVA (broad-spectrum) protection. However, it’s notoriously unstable in sunlight, breaking down unless paired with stabilizers like octocrylene, which adds complexity.
Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, both inorganic filters (often called “mineral” ingredients), provide broad protection and are photostable, but they’re not without drawbacks, either. Formulations that use these ingredients can leave a significant white cast and often feel heavy on the skin, discouraging regular use, especially in people with darker skin tones.
I still remember when I realized just how complicated building a good sunscreen is. It’s much more complicated than chemistry — and the chemistry is already complex. While studying for my master’s degree in cosmetic science at the University of Cincinnati, I enrolled in a course titled Melanogenesis, Sunscreens and Phototoxicity. It was taught by one of my favorite professors, Randy Wickett, PhD. We didn’t just learn about meeting sun protection factor (SPF) standards; we were taught, on a deeper level, how UV radiation interacts with skin, the chemistry behind filters, the regulatory limitations of those filters and how consumer needs shape what ends up on store shelves. That dive into photobiology and formulation challenges ignited my passion for sun-care innovation and taught me that creating a safe, effective sunscreen is as much about science and regulation as it is about aesthetics. If a sunscreen doesn’t feel good or leaves a chalky finish, consumers are even less likely to use it consistently.
And, to be sure, many cosmetic scientists see this as more than a technical problem. It’s a public health issue. The lack of cosmetically elegant, high-protection sunscreens jeopardizes our ability to encourage consistent daily sunscreen use and leaves gaps in UVA coverage, which is associated with premature aging and skin cancer. In regions like the European Union, consumers benefit from a much broader selection of UV filters that is about double the number we can currently use in the U.S. This allows formulators to create sunscreens that are not only safe and effective, but also offer superior aesthetics and versatility in texture and wear compared to what’s currently possible in the U.S.
The U.S. Regulatory Landscape: Innovation Challenges
The FDA’s regulatory process for new sunscreen active ingredients is notoriously slow and complex. This reality has shaped the sunscreen market for more than two decades. Since 1999, no new filter has received U.S. approval, despite the fact that many are routinely used in European, Asian and Australian products. The Sunscreen Innovation Act (SIA), signed into law in 2014, was supposed to create an expedited pathway to break this bottleneck. Yet, the creation of new review guidelines and the request for additional safety data on absorption of ingredients into the skin and the possible systemic effects of that led to repeated delays. This protracted process has also sparked confusion and even misinformation among consumers, sometimes undermining trust in effective sun care and complicating efforts to promote safe sunscreen use.
Many cosmetic chemists feel the strain of these limitations. Not only do we need more ingredient choices, but also more streamlined regulatory processes that reflect modern science, including the use of non-animal test methods for safety assessment. We must balance consumer safety with the pace of technological innovation. Scientific rigor is critical; none of us would want shortcuts when it comes to matters of public health. But the U.S. system’s current pace means new options for broad-spectrum, elegant sun protection have been severely limited. For everyday consumers, this slow progress may not be readily visible, but it manifests in dissatisfaction with the current selection of sunscreen products on store shelves.
A Case Study in Persistence: The Long Road of a New U.S. Active Ingredient
One promising development is the long-awaited approval of a new active ingredient that’s been under review for years. Bemotrizinol (also known as PARSOL Shield) is an advanced, broad-spectrum UV filter that’s been available in Europe since 1999. For nearly two decades, U.S. cosmetic companies have waited for the chance to offer this ingredient in domestic formulations. Through advocacy from scientists and dsm-firmenich, the manufacturer working to bring bemotrizinol to market in the U.S., plus new data and regulatory reforms, the ingredient is finally winding its way through the FDA review process. If all goes as expected and no unforeseen delays occur, bemotrizinol will likely be FDA-approved in 2026, with consumer products containing it potentially hitting shelves later in 2026 or early in 2027.
What excites cosmetic chemists about it is its versatility. This molecule integrates easily into a wide variety of sunscreen systems, playing well with other ingredients and lending formulators new options for texture and transparency. While it already provides protection in the UVB and UVA ranges, it also works well with existing filters to create additional broad-spectrum coverage and can often reduce the total percentage of filters needed. In other words, it’s the kind of ingredient that helps create sunscreens people actually want to use: lightweight gels, tinted moisturizers tailored for all skin tones and even multifunctional products that deliver sun protection alongside other skin benefits.
This filter has undergone rigorous testing: for phototoxicity, genotoxicity, reproductive toxicity and more. It’s shown to be photostable, meaning it doesn’t break down quickly in sunlight. And it allows for more elegant formulations with lighter textures, better skin feel and improved compatibility with makeup and skin care.
I remember sitting in a session of the Florida Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists Sunscreen Symposium and hearing Carl D’Ruiz speak about the decades-long effort to bring this filter to market. As head of science, advocacy & business development, beauty & care, North America, for dsm-firmenich, Carl’s message was clear: We need new filters to provide better protection. It’s not about replacing what we have. And that’s the key. More filters mean more flexibility for formulators and more choices for consumers.
Looking Ahead: Modern Sunscreens for All
Despite the challenges, the future of sun protection in the U.S. feels bright right now. As scientists, we advocate for modernization of products and policies. It’s essential that U.S. consumers have access to the same variety and efficacy of sun protection available in other regions of the world. But innovation isn’t just about new molecules; it’s about designing products that work for different skin types, diverse skin tones and individual lifestyles, while helping to prevent skin cancer.
We also need continued scientific rigor in testing and safety, not rumor or sensationalism. Misinformation about sunscreen ingredients — common on social media and in certain consumer circles — must be countered with balanced, evidence-based communication. The Skin Cancer Foundation has done essential work in this space, and cosmetic chemists can amplify and clarify this message: Regular use of sunscreen saves lives and lowers skin cancer rates.
Still Needed: Advocacy and Action
As we look ahead, the role of advocacy by scientists, industry groups and health organizations becomes more critical. We must work with legislators to incentivize innovation and remove unnecessary barriers to new active ingredients that meet stringent safety standards. The likely approval of bemotrizinol is just the beginning. Approving more innovative sunscreen ingredients means more cosmetically appealing, highly protective products that can drive consistent use across all age groups, ethnicities and outdoor lifestyles. This is not a luxury; it’s a pragmatic necessity to advance public health in skin cancer prevention.
Cosmetic chemists play a crucial role in this journey, translating complex science into accessible, effective products and meaningful information. Persistence and public education from scientists, regulators, consumer organizations and the media are important, too. The ultimate goal is not just elegant chemistry, but a new era of sunscreen: one built on access, choice and scientifically rigorous UV protection for every consumer, every day.
Kelly A. Dobos, MSc, is a cosmetic chemist and educator based in Cincinnati, Ohio. With more than 20 years of experience developing beauty and personal care products, she has worked with iconic brands and now teaches in the University of Cincinnati’s Cosmetic Science program. Passionate about sunscreen science and formulation innovation, she also writes and speaks widely to make cosmetic chemistry accessible to both professionals and consumers.
